Imagine a place where camels wander nonchalantly among the sands, while you stand atop towering dunes, basking in the breathtaking beauty of a desert sunset or sunrise. As night falls, you drift to sleep under a canopy of twinkling stars, serenaded by the melodies of Berber music. Yes, you guessed it right: you are in the infinite orange dunes of Morocco.
Whether you’re looking for tips on how to reach the Moroccan desert, the best places to stay in Merzouga, or the most exciting activities to enjoy around Erg Chebbi, this guide has you covered!
About Merzouga & The Desert
Merzouga Desert, Moroccan Sahara, Erg Chebbi… You might wonder what all these places are. In the context of Morocco, they all refer to the same enchanting region. But let’s clear a few things up.
About Deserts in General
Deserts: A “desert” is any large, extremely dry area of land with sparse vegetation due to minimal precipitation. Desert landscapes vary widely, including dunes, towering bare peaks, flat-topped rock formations, and smoothly polished canyons. Interestingly, only about 20% of the world’s deserts are covered in sand. Deserts are found on every continent and cover about one-fifth of Earth’s land area.
African Deserts: In Africa, notable deserts include the Kalahari, Namib, and the most famous of them all, the Sahara Desert. The Sahara is the third largest desert in the world, spanning across northern Africa and covering an area of 9.2 million km². In Morocco, the Sahara extends into only a small area of the southern region.
Moroccan Deserts:
The Sahara, in general, and the Moroccan desert, in particular, largely consist of rugged, barren plateaus with little sand, resembling the moon’s surface—these are known as “hammadas.” Relentless winds blow away any grain of sand, leaving behind bare rock and boulders. One such place in Morocco is the Agafay Desert near Marrakesh.
However, Morocco does have two regions that conform to the image most people have of the Sahara Desert: Erg Chebbi near Merzouga and Erg Chigaga near the town of M’Hamid in the Zagora region. The Arabic word “erg” means “dune field” and describes vast, flat areas of the desert containing sand dunes created by the wind. Both ergs are in the south of Morocco, surrounded by rocky hammadas.
About Erg Chebbi
Erg Chebbi is nestled in southeastern Morocco, just a stone’s throw from the Algerian border, at the far western edge of the Sahara Desert. While some maps designate the area within the Sahara Desert, others do not. Regardless, one thing remains certain: when most people speak of the “Moroccan Sahara,” they have Erg Chebbi in mind. Although other places in Morocco fall within the Sahara’s loose borders, most tend to associate the term with Erg Chebbi, which is the most popular and impressive one.
Spanning approximately 18 kilometers by 9 kilometers, Erg Chebbi features around a dozen large star dunes. These towering pyramid-shaped formations are the tallest and most intricate of desert dunes, with many vibrant orange peaks reaching heights over 150 meters.
The nearest settlement to the Erg Chebbi desert is the small village of Merzouga. Positioned on the western side of the dunes, this local tourist hub boasts hotels and auberges aligned along the dunes’ north-south axis. So when you hear about the Merzouga Desert, it essentially refers to Erg Chebbi once again.
The Best Things to Do in Merzouga
Setting eyes on the dunes of Erg Chebbi for the first time is a bucket list experience in itself. But to truly immerse yourself in the desert’s essence, spending at least one night in a desert camp is a must! Witness the breathtaking sunset or sunrise from the dunes’ peak, marvel at the star-studded night sky, and explore the sandy terrain in your preferred way: by foot, ATV quad, sandboarding, or on a camel ride.
For those extending their stay or departing in the afternoon, a visit to the nearby village of Khamlia offers an opportunity to immerse yourself in the captivating rhythms of traditional Gnawa music. Nearby, you’ll also find the remnants of the abandoned kohl mine of M’ifis and the chance to engage with nomadic Berber communities in their camps.
Here’s a selection of the top things to do in Merzouga and the dunes of Erg Chebbi!
1. Luxuriate in a Desert Camp
There’s no better way to experience the serene beauty of Erg Chebbi’s dunes than by spending a night in a desert camp. Upon arriving there, whether by 4×4 or camel, you’ll be greeted with traditional Moroccan tea. Enjoy this warm welcome while sitting on Berber carpets and colorful pillows spread over the sand. Your tent, featuring an enormous bed, ensuite bathroom with hot showers, and layers of blankets and carpets, offers a cozy yet lavish escape that feels just like home.
Tip: While there are basic camps with shared bathrooms, we highly recommend opting for a luxury tent for a glamping experience. Don’t be deterred by the term “luxury”—many affordable luxury tents offer an opulent experience without costing much more than a stay in a Riad.
After sunset, step into the central dining tent aglow with soft lighting and adorned with desert trinkets. Here, you’ll be treated to a sumptuous traditional meal, infused with the rich flavors of Moroccan cuisine. But the night is just beginning.
Outside, gather around a warm campfire under a blanket of stars and watch as the camp staff transform into a Berber band, playing traditional music. The rhythmic beats of the Berber drums, combined with the camaraderie of new friends and the soothing warmth of the fire, create a night to remember!
2. Stargaze
In the desert, starry nights are an absolute showstopper! Here, city lights are a distant memory, and the night sky comes alive with an extraordinary show: a dazzling spectacle of stars, planets, and constellations, enchanting both avid stargazers and curious explorers.
Relax on the soft sand and take in the breathtaking view of the Milky Way stretching across the horizon. Keep an eye out for shooting stars and distant galaxies, adding to the magic of the moment. This tranquil experience allows you to feel connected to the vastness of the universe, making it an unforgettable highlight of any desert excursion.
3. Chase Sunsets & Sunrises
Sunset and sunrise hold a unique allure everywhere, but here in the desert, they’re truly otherworldly. Witnessing the sun sink below the horizon, painting the arid landscape with a palette of warm hues, is a spectacle like no other. And dawn, oh dawn in the desert, unveils a tranquil symphony of soft orange hues draped over every dune. It’s a moment worth savoring, even if it means sacrificing a few extra hours of sleep.
The prime vantage point? The summit of a dune!
Keep in mind: Once the sun ascends, the desert heat swiftly follows suit, so be prepared for its renowned intensity. Conversely, as night falls, temperatures plummet, so a jacket is a wise companion.
How to ascend the dunes: There are many ways to reach their summit, from a leisurely stroll to a thrilling ATV quad or camel ride. Choose the nearest dune or aim for the towering giants; the journey is as thrilling as the destination.
4. Explore the Dunes: Walk, Ride, or Glide
The allure of the Erg Chebbi dunes beckons, and you must answer the call! Whether it’s traversing by foot, revving up on an ATV quad, sliding down on sandboards, or swaying atop a camel, each avenue promises a distinct encounter with the awe-inspiring landscapes of this iconic destination.
Tip: Stay hydrated under the desert sun by carrying an ample water supply. Dress in comfortable, breathable attire and sturdy footwear, and don’t forget essentials like sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses. Prioritize safety by adhering to your guide’s instructions and donning recommended protective gear such as helmets and gloves.
By Walking
Embarking on foot allows for an intimate encounter with the desert’s towering dunes. Among those visible from the village, one stands out as the tallest, requiring about 45 minutes to an hour to reach its summit. You can either forge your own path or follow this suggested trail.
Another notable dune is Lala Lallia, which stands at an impressive height of 100 meters and spans 700 meters in width. Its Berber name, translating to “the highest sacred point,” highlights its cultural significance. Researchers estimate that the oldest part of the dune formed around 13,000 years ago. Following a dormant period of about 8,000 years, it expanded rapidly over the past millennium, gradually migrating westward at approximately 0.5 meters per year.
Note: Climbing a dune is more challenging than it appears but the view from the top makes the strenuous ascent well worth the effort. However, make sure you avoid the climb when the sun is at its peak.
By ATV Quad or Buggy
The vast dunes and rugged landscapes of Erg Chebbi provide the perfect playground for those seeking the thrill of quad-biking in the desert! Traverse the ever-shifting sands and majestic dunes, reveling in the vastness of the desert and the rush of adrenaline as you conquer the terrain.
Throughout the quad ride, you’ll be outfitted with essential safety gear, including a helmet and goggles, and accompanied by a seasoned local guide to guarantee your safety. ATV quads, requiring neither prior experience nor a license, are tailored for solo riders, unlike buggies, which comfortably accommodate two people.
Prices: If you book directly with your accommodation, expect to pay around €50 per person per hour for the quads. Buggies are more expensive, costing around €130 per hour.
— Tours —
By Camel
Venturing on a camel ride stands out as one of the most iconic and sought-after activities in the Merzouga desert. It offers a firsthand experience of navigating the golden dunes, mirroring the ancient traditions of the nomadic Berber people. Throughout history, the nomadic Moroccan communities have relied on dromedary camels, distinguished by their single hump, unlike the Bactrian camels, which sport two.
Regardless of where you choose to stay – be it in the village of Merzouga or a desert camp – camel rides are readily available through your accommodation. Expect rates to start from 200 MAD for a 1-2 hour ride.
By Sandboard
Similar to snowboarding but on warm, golden sands, sandboarding offers an exciting adventure! Climb to the top of the dunes for breathtaking views of the vast desert, and feel the thrill as you slide down the towering slopes.
Sandboarding is suitable for all skill levels, and with a bit of practice, you’ll quickly get the hang of it. Plus, the soft sands of Erg Chebbi ensure a gentle landing, so don’t hesitate to take a few tumbles – it’s all part of the fun!
Price: Some desert camps provide sandboards to their guests at no extra cost. If not, you can inquire at your camp about renting them, typically costing no more than 100 MAD for the whole day. When booking a camel ride or a quad bike, sandboarding is often combined with these activities for a comprehensive desert experience.
5. Groove to Gnawa Tunes in Khamlia Village
The Gnawa, descendants of enslaved Africans brought to Morocco, are a Sufi brotherhood known for their vibrant music, dance, and healing rituals. Their traditions blend ancestral African practices, Arab-Muslim influences, and native Berber cultural performances.
As for the Gnawa music, this is a spiritual and hypnotic mix of chanting, hand-clapping, and rhythmic playing of the guembri (a three-stringed lute) and metal qraqeb (castanets). It often features a call-and-response pattern and is performed during all-night lilas or derdeba ceremonies, which aim to invoke spirits and provide healing.
Planning a summer visit? Don’t miss the annual festival in August at Khamlia Village, or the renowned Essaouira Gnawa and World Music Festival held each June. These are two of the most famous celebrations of Gnawa culture!
How to visit the Gnawa
One village where you can discover the hypnotic rhythms of Gnawa music is Khamlia, just 7 km south of Merzouga and right next to the Erg Chebbi dunes. You can reach the village by shared taxi or by driving. Simply look out for signs along the road advertising the two musical groups: Bambara and Pigeons du Sable.
You can visit anytime without a reservation, and they will perform traditional music for you even if you are alone. It’s customary to show your appreciation to the musicians with a small donation, or better yet, support them by purchasing a CD.
Tip: While in Khamlia, don’t miss the chance to enjoy some excellent local eateries such as Dar Aytma Khamlia and Cafe Touga, and check out the local gallery.
6. Explore the Nearby Mine and Nomads
If you have a 4×4 vehicle, head to Kasbah Le Berger, located about 1 km north of Khamlia. From there, take the road south of Erg Chebbi for approximately 7 km to reach the Mifis Mine. This nearly deserted town is known for its mineral wealth, particularly iron, zinc, and lead, dating back to the French colonization era.
Continue driving for an additional 3 km to reach nomadic Berber camps, where you’ll find herding cattle amidst a surreal volcanic desert landscape. Here, you can sit under a tent, enjoy a cup of tea, and savor Madfouna (the Berber take on pizza)—or even help in its preparation.
If you don’t have a car, and since shared taxis do not travel on this dirt road, consider booking a 4×4 day tour. These tours typically combine a visit to Khamlia village for Gnawa music with a drive to the mines and the nomadic communities.
— Tours —
How to get to Merzouga
Many travelers opt for the convenience of an organized 3-day tour, commencing their journey from Marrakesh and concluding in Fes. However, for those who prefer to craft their own itinerary, reaching Merzouga independently is entirely feasible, whether by car or public transport (utilizing shared taxis and buses).
Tip: While it’s possible to dedicate a full day solely to travel to Merzouga, we highly recommend taking advantage of the opportunity to explore the surrounding areas. There are places such as Ait Ben Haddou, Ouarzazate, and the stunning gorges of Dades and Todra en route that would be a shame to overlook.
Important Note: Merzouga marks the closest accessible point to the Sahara Desert by conventional car or shared taxi/bus. Once you reach Merzouga, the vast sand dunes of Erg Chebbi begin. Therefore, if you’re staying in the Erg Chebbi dunes without a 4×4, you’ll need to arrange with your camp for transportation by 4×4 or camel.
Make sure to check during your booking if transport to the camp is included in the price. If not, this can significantly increase the total cost of your stay.
By Car
From Marrakesh, Merzouga is 560 km away, which takes about 9 hours of driving without stops. From Fes, it’s 480 km, with a driving time of around 7 hours and 30 minutes.
When it comes to parking, most accommodations in the villages of Merzouga and Hassilabied, as well as the camps in the dunes, provide parking spots. While you can access village parking with any kind of vehicle, reaching the parking at desert camps requires a 4×4 vehicle. If you have a regular car, your accommodation will guide you to a secure parking spot in the village and arrange to pick you up by 4×4 or camel.
By Shared Taxi
Shared taxis, known locally as Grand Taxis, were our preferred mode of transport throughout our Morocco itinerary. They’re incredibly affordable (like 50 MAD for a 3-hour drive) and operate between nearby towns, creating a convenient network for travelers. These taxis typically accommodate up to six passengers and depart once full. However, if you’re in a hurry, you can opt to pay for the remaining seats.
The journey from Marrakesh to Merzouga can be easily completed using shared taxis, though it may require multiple legs. The typical route includes the following stops, but if you’re lucky enough to find fellow passengers heading in the same direction (or are willing to pay for additional seats), you may be able to combine some legs:
| Grand Taxi Route from Marrakesh: Ouarzazate (100 MAD) > Tinghir (60 MAD) > Erfoud (50 MAD) > Rissani (15 MAD) > Merzouga (15 MAD) > Errachidia (60 MAD) > Midelt (60 MAD) > Fes (120 MAD)
By Bus
You can take a direct bus from Marrakesh to Merzouga and either return to Marrakesh or continue to Fes. Upon arrival in Merzouga, someone from your accommodation will pick you up from the station or a closer pick-up point. If the latter, you will need to take a petit taxi (around 10 MAD) to the specified location.
Tip: If you have the time, break up the journey by adding an intermediate stop. On your way to Merzouga, spend a night at Ait Benhaddou, and on your way back, spend a night at either Todra Gorge or Dades Valley. You can read more in our guide.
From Marrakesh:
The only company operating a direct route to Merzouga from Marrakesh is Supratours. There is one daily departure, leaving Marrakesh (bus station location) at 08:00 and arriving in Merzouga at 20:30. The return trip from Merzouga to Marrakesh departs at 07:30 and arrives at 20:00.
Tickets: You can book your bus tickets here. If you prefer to book through the Supratour website and cannot find direct tickets, consider booking two separate ones: from Marrakesh to Tinerhir and from there to Merzouga (250-370 MAD).
From Fes:
Supratours departs daily from Fes (bus station location) at 20:30, arriving in Merzouga at 06:15 the next morning. The return trip from Merzouga to Fes departs at 19:00, arriving at 04:15. The overnight journey takes around 10 hours and costs 200 MAD.
Tourist minivans operated by Marrakech City Life also leave Merzouga for Fes at 07:30 and 08:30, arriving after about 10 hours and 30 minutes.
Tickets: Book your bus tickets here.
By Tour
If you’re short on time or prefer to have everything organized, opting for a tour is a great choice. For those who still want some flexibility in their schedule and money is no issue, a private tour to Merzouga is an excellent option. If you’re on a budget, consider the following tours that take you from Marrakesh to Merzouga and back (or onwards to Fes).
— Organized Tours —
Organized Tour or DIY: Which Is Right for You?
The stretch between Marrakesh and Merzouga, featuring attractions like Ait Benhaddou, Ouarzazate, Dades Valley, and Todra Gorge, ranks among the country’s highlights. With that in mind, we highly recommend spending at least three nights (ideally four) in the region and going the DIY route: explore at your own pace, pick accommodations to suit your preferences, and dine wherever you fancy. In addition, booking luxury camps independently is often more economical than upgrading through a tour.
That being said, we've curated the Ultimate 5-Day Itinerary to Merzouga, feasible by either car or public transport!
So, when should you opt for a tour? If you’re in Marrakesh with limited time (let’s say two nights) and want to see Merzouga before returning there, a tour is the most cost-effective option, especially if you choose a basic camp. Otherwise, the cost nearly doubles for a luxury camp.
Where to Stay in Merzouga
When choosing where to stay in Merzouga, you have two main options: the charming riads and guesthouses located on the western edge of Erg Chebbi, or the more adventurous desert camps nestled in the southern and northwestern edges of the dunes.
Staying at the Western Edges of the Dunes – The Villages
The west side of the dunes is bordered by the main road and the village of Merzouga, along with smaller villages like Hassilabied and Khamlia. This area offers the most extensive tourist infrastructure and top-notch accommodations. From family-run guesthouses to luxurious riads and stunning Kasbahs with swimming pools and terraces, the variety here is impressive.
Tip: If you stay in the village of Hassilabied, make sure to check out the gardens and go shopping at Dépôt Nomade. For food, Sahara Time, Hamid, and Hassi Labied come highly recommended!
The most luxurious of those are situated right on the edges of the Erg Chebbi dunes, offering breathtaking views of the dunes in the near distance. While staying in these locations, you won’t be directly in the dunes, but you will be just a stone’s throw away. You can enjoy the comfort and luxury of your riad while easily booking separate tours to explore the dunes.
Accommodation: Hassilabiad Appart Hotel, Riad Kasbah Aiour, Desert Villa Boutique Hotel, Riad Chebbi, Dar Morocco
— Tours —
If you are staying in the village, you can explore Erg Chebbi by independently booking a quad bike tour, a camel tour, or a 4×4 drive to the Berber nomads.
Staying at a Desert Camp
If you want to stay among the dunes, most desert camps are concentrated in the south and northeast parts of Erg Chebbi. When considering a stay there, two main questions arise: Does the location of the camp matter, and should you choose a basic or luxury camp? Here’s what you need to know:
(1) Camp Location
Yes, the location does matter. It’s not about some camps being deeper inside the dunes and others not. Due to preservation efforts, all camps have been moved to the edge of the sand dunes, so none are situated deep within the dunes anymore.
The key is to find a camp that offers a serene experience. Some camps are situated too close to the village, where you may encounter everyday noises in the morning or notice lights at night. Others are positioned too closely to each other, allowing the drumming from neighboring camps to be heard. For greater isolation, you may need to seek out a camp that is slightly removed from the large dunes and situated in the rocky desert.
Tip Use the satellite view on Google Maps to check how many camps are in the area and how close together they are!
(2) Basic or Luxury Camp?
When faced with the choice between a basic and a luxury camp, our preference is undoubtedly for the latter. But fear not at the mention of “luxury” – prices start from just 60 euros for a tent for two. Included in this price is a delightful tent equipped with a private bathroom, shower, hot water, and electricity, as well as breakfast and dinner. In contrast, basic camps typically offer little more than a tent with blankets on the floor.
However, before finalizing your booking at a desert camp, it’s essential to ensure that certain amenities are included. If these details aren’t clearly outlined on the booking page, it’s advisable to contact the camp beforehand:
- Transportation: Ensure that transportation to and from the camp, typically by 4×4, is included. If you don’t have a 4×4 or are arriving via public transport, you’ll need to arrange transportation from the village of Merzouga to the camp. If this transfer is not included, it can cost anywhere from 20 to 70 euros per person.
- Meals: Check if dinner and breakfast are included in the package. Without the option to dine elsewhere, unless you have a car parked at the camp, you’ll be reliant on meals provided there.
- Activities: Be aware that activities such as sandboarding, camel riding, quad biking, and 4×4 tours to nomads are charged separately. Be sure to inquire about any extra fees associated with these activities.
Accommodation: Sahara Majestic Luxury Camp, Magic Luxury Camp, Kam Kam Dunes, Nomada Domes, Sahara Luxury Tented Camp, Ali & Sara's Desert Palace
Best Time to Visit Merzouga
The optimal time to experience the Moroccan Desert in Merzouga is during the cooler months from October to April, offering more comfortable temperatures. March to May and September to October are especially favorable. It’s crucial to steer clear of the scorching summer heat, particularly in July and August.
Tip: Regardless of the timing of your visit, always bring layers. Nighttime temperatures plummet after sunset, while the heat becomes stifling after sunrise, even during the milder months.
How many days to spend in Merzouga?
Most visitors arrive in Merzouga in the afternoon to witness the sunset and savor the sunrise the following morning before departing soon after. Although an additional night may not provide a significantly different experience, spending the night in the desert is a rare opportunity. Therefore, if your schedule allows, we strongly advise extending your stay for a second night.
To make the most of your additional day, consider exploring the villages of Hassilabied and Khamlia. You can either drive there yourself or opt for a guided 4×4 tour.
Tips for Visiting Merzouga
Having been there and done that, here are a few tips to ensure a smooth and enjoyable trip. Do as we say, not as we did!
- Book Your Bus Tickets in Advance: If traveling by public transport, avoid booking your bus tickets at the last minute. Typically, securing a spot requires booking at least 24 hours in advance. Otherwise, you might end up staying an extra night or relying on shared taxis.
- Check What’s Included in Your Camp Price: Ensure you know exactly what is included in your camp price. Transfers to the camp and meals not included can significantly increase the cost of what might initially seem like a great deal for a luxury camp.
- Dress Properly: Desert temperatures fluctuate greatly between day and night, so bring layers and functional clothing. If you’re sleeping in a basic tent, ensure you have warm sweaters and jackets. Additionally, when in Morocco, do as the Moroccans do: bring a scarf. It will be invaluable for protecting your face from the sun and sand, covering your shoulders, and wrapping around your head.
- Have Cash With You: Taxis (both grand and petit) do not accept cards, and unless you paid by card during the reservation, your accommodation will likely expect cash on arrival. There is one ATM in Merzouga, but stopping at the village first can be inconvenient.
- Bring Enough Water and Snacks: Make sure to carry sufficient water and snacks for your entire stay in the desert. Otherwise, you’ll need to purchase additional food and drinks at your camp, which can be expensive.
- Check your camp’s charging facilities: Charging options may be limited in your tent. In our camp, there were only specific cable inputs (not compatible with iPhones), but we could charge our devices in the common area.
How much to Budget for Merzouga
A trip to Merzouga doesn’t need to break the bank, even if you opt for a luxury camp. To keep costs down, travel by public transport (exploring the beautiful destinations in between) and choose your camp wisely. Also, opt for activities such as watching the sunset, hiking among the dunes, and sandboarding instead of renting a quad bike.
We traveled from Tinghir to Merzouga and then continued to Fes by shared taxi (600dh and one pick-up), and stayed in a luxury camp with breakfast, dinner, and 4×4 transfer included (700dh). Our total cost was about 1300dh, which is around €120 (€60 each).
Typical Costs for a DIY Trip
- Transport to/from Merzouga: Traveling to Merzouga from Marrakesh by public transport costs between 280-440dh one way, and from Merzouga to Fes, it costs about 200dh one way. These prices are similar if you use a Grand Taxi.
- Transfer to the camp: Once you reach Merzouga, transferring to your camp by 4×4 is usually free for many camps, although some may charge around €50 per person. Alternatively, you can opt for a camel ride to your camp, which costs around €20 per person.
- Luxury Camp: Accommodation costs, including dinner and breakfast, start from around €60 per room per night for two people and can go up from there. Breakfast is almost always included, but dinner might not be.
- Activities: Camel rides are typically around €20 per person, quad rentals are €40 per person per hour, buggy rentals are €120 per hour, and 4×4 tours cost around €50 per person. Sandboarding is usually free or around €10 per person.
Typical Costs for a Tour
A 3-day tour from Marrakesh to Merzouga and back, including one night in Dades or Tinghir and one in the desert, typically costs around €100 per person. This price includes sharing a minivan with a group of 15-20 people and accommodation in a basic tent with a shared bathroom.
Included: all transfers, breakfast, dinner, camel ride, two-night accommodation
Not included: lunch, ATV quad/buggy rental
Extra charges: €70-90 for a luxury camp with a private bathroom — €70-90 for drop-off in Fes